Soma is the sort of bottle that looks like it’s about to behave itself, and then gently does not. I bought this wine when it was first released and it’s been sitting in my cellar waiting for the right moment to help celebrate life. 

Made by Revel Cider in Ontario, the 2018 Soma is a Pétillant-Naturel apple wine, which is a polite way of saying it was allowed to do its own thing. Nothing added, nothing taken away. The apples were cryoconcentrated by winter itself, left to freeze so the good bits could huddle together and become more interesting. Wild yeasts were invited in. Fermentation finished in the bottle. Bubbles happened naturally. Order was optional.

In the glass, Soma arrives lightly coloured, with a fine, energetic sparkle. There is sediment, because of course there is, and it’s best treated like a houseguest who means well. Pour gently if you prefer clarity. Embrace it if you enjoy a little texture and mystery. Either approach is correct.

On the nose, this is all orchard and apple skin, with a hint of cider cellar and fresh bread dough drifting in from the fermentation. It flirts briefly with funk, then thinks better of it. The result is fresh, restrained, and quietly confident rather than loud or performative.

The palate is dry, crisp, and surprisingly serious beneath its playful fizz. The cryoconcentration gives the cider some backbone, adding depth and structure without tipping into sweetness. Apple flavours are precise and grown-up: more skin and flesh than juice. The bubbles keep things lively, lifting the acidity and carrying everything neatly through to a clean, savoury finish that knows when to leave.

At around 11.5 percent alcohol, Soma is very much a sit-down cider, not a lawnmower cider. It behaves more like a natural wine that happens to be made from apples, and it rewards being served cold, upright, and with a bit of attention. It’s excellent on its own and even better with food, particularly cheese or anything roasted and comforting.

The 2018 Soma manages the neat trick of being thoughtful without being smug. It’s playful without being silly, natural without being preachy, and serious enough to keep your interest while still feeling like it’s having fun. A bottle that sparkles, literally and otherwise.